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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.